Lima, Peru is home to more than 6,000 Chinese restaurants known as “chifas.” These restaurants reflect the long history of Chinese immigration and influence in the country.
Between the years 1848 and 1874, approximately 91,000 Chinese immigrants were brought to Peru as laborers. As such, the Chinese were the first Asians to come to Peru, bringing with them unique ingredients such as ginger, soy sauce and scallions that added a whole new element to Peruvian gastronomy. While adopting local ingredients like pineapple and bananas from the Amazon and potatoes from the Andes highlands, these early immigrants also maintained their traditional cooking methods and ingredients. In a short matter of time, the mix of Peruvian staples and Chinese influence gave rise to a new style of cuisine that is still popular today: chifa.
The name “chifa” originates from the Mandarin “chi-fan,” which means “to eat rice.” Today chifa is a contemporary blend of Chinese and Peruvian flavors. Lomo Saltado, which is now considered a very traditional dish, is actually a fusion of Chinese and Peruvian style – using many Peruvian ingredients but preparing them in a way that is similar to traditional Chinese cooking methods. Another well-known chifa dish is Arroz Chaufa – a form of Chinese-Peruvian fried rice that includes fresh spices, rice and chicken, seafood or pork.
While chifa restaurants can be found in any major city in Peru, in Lima one of the best places to go for chifa and to buy chifa ingredients is Barrio Chino in downtown Lima. Chinatown in Lima is centered on blocks seven and eight of Calle Jirón Ucayali and was first established in the mid-19th century by Chinese immigrants. Though Barrio Chino was severely damaged during the War of the Pacific, the neighborhood started to experience a revival in the 1970’s and is now a thriving center of Chinese-Peruvian culture.
Chinatown is one of the best places to buy unique ingredients that aren’t available in other parts of Lima. Moreover, some of the most famous chifa restaurants are located on these two blocks. Perhaps the most important chifa is Chifa San Joy Lao, which first opened its doors in 1920. Other notable chifas in the area include Salón China and Wa Lok. However, you don’t need to go to the heart of Chinatown to find good chifa in Lima. Many small, delicious chifas exist all over the city, as well as some additional famous ones. Restaurante Royal, founded in 1995 in San Isidro, is one of the best chifas in Peru and is known not only for its excellent food, but its cozy, Mandarin-style decoration.
A true chifa experience is not just about the food, it is about the people you share it with. Traditionally, chifa is a social experience in which many different dishes are ordered for the table and shared amongst the guests. This shows how immigration can be hugely significant by influencing and developing culture. In the case of chifa, the new ingredients and style of cooking brought by Chinese immigrants has made a lasting impact on Peruvian culture and gastronomy.
